Publication of the fourth edition of the COSMOS-standard for organic and natural cosmetics is expected at the end of 2022. At CosmeticBusiness, Dr Roland Grandel represented IONC GmbH as the official certification body in Germany and presented the most significant additions and changes.

According to Grandel, the main aim of the new edition is to retain the high COSMOS standards while addressing current issues and growing consumer expectations concerning organic and natural cosmetics without losing sight of practicability for manufacturers. Some of the existing criteria were renewed and some new regulations were added.

"Green Chemistry" Principles Applied

In future, COSMOS certification will take the use of raw materials of mineral origin into account. The current edition contains a list of approved ingredients. In the new version, however, eight of these ingredients will have been removed from the list with a view to protecting the environment and human safety. Furthermore, social criteria in the supply chain are implemented, as well as principles of "Green Chemistry". This is designed to reduce energy usage and waste production.

Grandel also announced that the fourth edition forbids the use of sulphation in COSMOS products. With a few exceptions, nanomaterials will also be forbidden. Additionally, the future standard contains a new list of plants that may exclusively be used in organic quality.

Stricter Regulations for Palm Oil and Packaging

The new COSMOS standard will tighten the rules in some areas. This affects the use of palm oil and its derivatives as well as supporting the protection of endangered species when harvesting raw ingredients. The criteria for sustainable packaging will also be tightened. The principles of "reduce, reuse, renewable and recycle" will be added with defined evaluation indicators. Products aspiring to the COSMOS-standard will in future need to comply with at least three indicators from a minimum of two different principles, Grandel explains.

He goes on to add that the earliest application of the new COSMOS criteria will be from May 2023. Depending on the category, different transition periods will be set. These can vary from 18 months for the use of plant ingredients in organic quality to six years for the changeover from sulphation. However, all categories laid out in the standard will be regularly checked for feasibility and adapted if necessary, Grandel adds.

The lecture is available to registered users in the media library at https://www.cosmetic-business.com/program/cosmeticbusiness/6336 .